Heaven Is A Cinnamon Roll

Whenever I'm in Union Square, City Bakery sucks me in like a giant magnet. Last night, however, an equally strong pull was exerted by 'wichcraft. I stopped in for a favorite sandwich: tangy melted Fontina on crispy white toast with black mushrooms and a touch of white truffle oil. While casting a quick glance over the counter, I spied a pile of cinnamon rolls. It didn't cross my mind to order one (I usually finish my meals with something of a chocolate nature), but the handsome cashier said those magic words: "Would you like me to heat one up?"

I was quite unprepared for the sheer pleasure I was in for! As I pulled apart the layers of warm, eggy brioche, I encountered the most luscious swirl of caramelized cinnamon sugar. It was as though the entire universe of deliciousness was concentrated into one palm-sized pastry.

Lost in sweet delirium, I was fortunately able to remember a scoop imparted to me by the cashier: a new 'wichcraft is planned for the TriBeCa area!

'wichcraft: 49 East 19th Street, (212) 780-0577.

A Birthday To Remember

On Friday, I received an unexpected box from Airborne Express. I opened it to find this triple chocolate cake! (Thanks, Mom.)

Farewell, But Not Goodbye

After seven food-filled years in Brooklyn, I am moving to Queens. I salivate at the thought of all the different cuisines in the borough, and the lower housing prices will provide me with more disposable income with which to dine out! Stay tuned for reports from bustling Jackson Heights and artsy Astoria. (Of course, I will still be doing plenty of eating in Manhattan and Brooklyn.) Here is my final report as a Brooklynite.

During the inclement weather, I have enjoyed ordering delivery from Downtown Atlantic. A bag full of goodies from this local gem turns a drafty brownstone into a cozy dining nook. If you order in the morning, there's a frittata of the day. In the evening, there's an earthy roasted beet and Roquefort salad, crab cakes with remoulade, several pasta dishes (my favorite is the shrimp and truffle oil fettucini), Asian chicken salad, and terrific sandwiches (I like the fried catfish). I am also especially fond of a frequently recurring special: the octopus salad dressed with lemon and olive oil.

Downtown Atlantic is justifiably proud of their fresh baked goods. When you visit the restaurant, there are all kinds of wonderful aromas emanating from the downstairs ovens. I can never restrain myself from ordering several cookies and muffins, and I love the crumbly, buttery apple tart. I think I'll be haunting my old neighborhood!

Downtown Atlantic: 364 Atlantic Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 852-9945.

Kapadokya

It was to be a long day at the Brooklyn Supreme Court. This was the first time I'd ever been summoned for jury duty; unfortunately, I'd neglected to bring enough snacks. Right when I was sure that the entire courtroom could hear my stomach growling, I was called to a jury selection room for a civil case.

Ironically enough, the case involved a restaurant (which shall remain nameless). As the endless series of voir dires was conducted, I daydreamed about appetizers. Finally, it was one o'clock: lunch hour!

Brooklyn Heights' Montague Street is not known for fine dining. However, I was happy to spend my hour of freedom at charming Kapadokya. This homey Turkish restaurant offers a wealth of selections for carnivores and vegetarians alike, and the $7.95 two-course lunch special is a great value. I began with a bowl of lentil soup into which I dunked homemade pita, then enjoyed a hearty vegetable casserole with rice. The waitress was very friendly; we discussed how Greek and Turkish desserts are so similar (the Turkish kadayif, shredded wheat with pistachios and honey, is the equivalent of the Greek kadaifi).

I intend to return to try Kapadokya's version of my favorite Turkish appetizers: feta-stuffed filo "cigars" and cacik (garlicky cucumbers in yogurt).

For those of you who were wondering, I was dismissed from the jury pool; I'm hopelessly biased as far as restaurants are concerned.

Kapadokya: 142 Montague Street, 2nd. Floor, Brooklyn. (718) 875-2211.

Thanksgiving Dinner

If you're not dining out on Thanksgiving, yet you still haven't planned your own menu, I recommend taking home a wonderfully complete holiday feast from City Bakery. Start the meal with a mesclun salad, then move on to an organic turkey with your choice of mushroom or cornbread stuffing. Gingered sweet potatoes, butternut squash, creamed spinach and buttermilk horseradish mashed potatoes will provide a lovely accompaniment for your bird. Round out the meal with Indian apple pie, dark chocolate cheesecake, and, of course, City Bakery's legendary pumpkin pie. Have a terrific holiday!

City Bakery: 3 W. 18th St., (212) 366-1414.

The Blossoming of Brooklyn's 5th Avenue: Belleville and Red Cafe

It's no wonder that so many people are moving to Park Slope, with new restaurants like Belleville and Red Cafe opening almost daily. This weekend, I had the delightful opportunity to visit both hotspots.

Red Cafe, a hospitable father-son operation, offers a dynamite assortment of sandwiches as well as a small menu of entrees. I thoroughly enjoyed the spice-crusted salmon sandwich with fried and sauteed leeks, lemony black olive tapenade, and hard-boiled eggs. My friends devoured their cheeseburgers with Stilton, and we all split the irresistible buttery-crusted three-berry pie, which was slightly warmed and topped with two scoops of vanilla-bean ice cream.

If you can't secure a table at the tiny Red Cafe, walk over to Belleville, an inviting bistro at 5th Street and 5th Avenue. Park Slopers waited for months for this place to materialize; many among us wondered if the endless renovations would result in an actual restaurant. What a wonderful addition it is to the neighborhood! Last night Belleville celebrated the arrival of the new Beaujolais with a light and fruity version. I drank a toast to the Parisian salad of shredded carrots, haricots verts, hard-boiled eggs, white beans, cauliflower and aioli, the tuna nicoise, the classic Gruyere fondue, scrumptious French onion soup, and the warm chocolate torte and tart with thinly-sliced apples. Whew!

Red Cafe: 78 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 789-1100. Belleville: 330 Fifth St., Brooklyn, (718) 832-9777.

30,000 Square Feet Of Chocolate

Is this a dream? No, it's sweet reality... today through Sunday, the NYC Chocolate Show will take place at the Metropolitan Pavilion (125 W. 18th Street at 6th Ave.). See you there!

A Chocolate A Day...

Ki Won Lee, a South Korean researcher, has shown that hot cocoa contains more heart-healthy antioxidants than green tea or even red wine. I hope Lee's findings will convince my physician to write me a prescription for the hot chocolate souffle at Eleven Madison Park. This giant edible cauldron of bubbling chocolate is served with a plate of small chocolate cherry cakes and numerous scoops of chocolate, vanilla and hazelnut ice cream. (If you want to conserve your appetite in order to enjoy this dessert, you will have to moderate your consumption of the addictive cheese puffs at the beginning of the meal. I did not.)

Eleven Madison Park: 11 Madison Ave., (212) 889-0905.

Halloween Treats at Jacques Torres

According to the National Confectioners Association, the most popular Halloween treat is the Snickers bar. Although I'm not a fan of that particular candy, I am most fond of the chocolate hazelnut pralines at Jacques Torres! Rich, silky chocolate enrobes a crunchy hazelnut paste center, resulting in a mouthful of sweet pleasure. Unfortunately, the limited-edition chocolate praline bars are no longer in production; call up and demand their return!

Jacques Torres: 66 Water St., Brooklyn, (718) 875-9772.

Trends In Chocolate

It's never too early to start planning for The Chocolate Show! For those of you who are still unfamiliar with this annual event, it's the chocoholic's equivalent of the Super Bowl. I am particularly excited about the "New Taste Trends in Chocolate" lecture which will be given by Chocophile.com editor Clay Gordon on Nov. 13th at 5 p.m.

Recently, I've done my own informal research into chocolate, and I've noticed two opposing trends: the trend towards purity and the trend towards exotic innovation. In the first category is the single-bean phenomenon; chocolatiers from Valrhona to Guittard are marketing chocolates produced with cacao beans from specific locations. The descriptions of these chocolates often read like travel brochures, making me want to fly to "Western Venezuela, South of Lake Maracaibo" for a Sur Del Lago bar (Guittard) or Ghana for some Omanhene chocolate. The International Chocolate Company offers Mexican, Ecuadorian, and Ivorian single-bean bars.

Chocolate is also being paired with more exotic flavors for truly unique tasting experiences. Former pastry chef Eric Gererd has created a whole line of truffles with flavors like wasabi and curry. He has even pioneered a new assortment of chocolates for Brooklyn's own Bierkraft (a shop with 900 varieties of imported beers). These chocolates include flavors such as Abita Purple Haze, Remsten Winter Wheat, and Sierra Nevada Porter.

Some other delicious taste innovations are the Naga bar (sweet Indian curry powder, coconut flakes and Belgian milk chocolate) from Vosges and the Peruvian chocolates with caramel and prunes from Helena's Chocolatier (special thanks to California chocoholic Dana Colligan for this last recommendation).

I look forward to doing more research of this nature!

NYC vs. Miami: Let The Best Entree Win!

This year, it turns out that foodies have as much invested in the World Series as do baseball fans.

Titan Foods

I now understand how the Titans earned their appellation; they probably lived on a luscious diet of deep-fried, honey-drenched pastries! I ballooned up to my own titanic proportions visiting Domna's Bakery at Titan Foods, a Greek supermarket in Astoria.

My shopping bags almost broke with the sheer weight of everything I had purchased. At Domna’s, I had loaded up on touloubakia, striated cylinders of sweet fried dough, and assorted soropiasta, delicious packages of filo wrapped around coconut, pistachio, and walnut fillings. I had also bought many jars of preserved fruit (kumquats, rose petals, candied citron, figs with cloves, sour cherries) to mix with creamy strained yogurt. There were bags of rusks, Greek cheeses, bottles of olive oil, some Cretan thyme honey, and a box of loucoumi souzouki, a jelled candy rolled in sesame seeds with walnuts inside. Grape leaves and quince paste completed my shopping list. Oh, and I forgot to mention the wonderful spinach feta pie.

Titan Foods: 25-56 31st St., Queens, (718) 626-7771.

Smorgas Chef

If you're starving for Swedish but don't have time for Aquavit, you'll be delighted at the recent opening of Smorgas Chef. This charming newcomer to Stone Street features the typical open-faced sandwiches of Sweden. A thick slice of sourdough can be topped with lobster, meatballs, shrimp, a codfish patty, or my choice: smoked salmon and scrambled eggs. You can also opt for a soup or salad, but whatever you do, leave room for a sweet vanilla waffle smeared with cloudberry jam!

Smorgas Chef: 53 Stone St., (212) 422-3503. Grand opening on Saturday!

Blue Sky Bakery

According to a report in Time Magazine, extra girth can have a calming effect on the brain! Perhaps that is why I feel so relaxed this afternoon; I just got back from some intensive waist-widening at the Blue Sky Bakery.

Blue Sky's offerings change daily at the whim of Nadezda, the Serbian-born pastry chef. Sometimes, Nadezda will feel like baking a traditional English apple pie. Other days find her experimenting with exotic variations on American staples, such as zucchini banana plum muffins or even pizza with ham and mangoes. Lately, to my great delight, Nadezda has felt inspired to serve up some delectable dishes from her native country: acak, a rice, dill and yogurt dish, and gibanica, a delicious filo, egg and feta quiche. I have never tasted a quiche quite like this; it is rich and airy at once with its many layers of buttered pastry and eggs.

I have already been to Blue Sky twice this weekend, and from now on, I intend to stop by at least hourly. Maybe I'll see you there.

Blue Sky Bakery: 53 5th Ave., Brooklyn. (718) 783-4123. Call to find out which goodies they have today!

25 Dumplings For $4.50

My stomach has a mind of its own. It does not often heed my brain's suggestions to eat in moderation.

At Cafe Glechik in Brighton Beach, my stomach prevailed once again. This venerable Ukrainian cafe specializes in two kinds of dumplings: vareniki (half-moons stuffed with your choice of potato, cabbage, meat, sour cherries or farmer's cheese) and pelmeni, round dumplings filled with either chicken, veal or eggs and cheese. Amazingly, a big plate of 25 plump dumplings costs only $4.50-$7.50. I recommend the vareniki "Kuban" style, with mozzarella, dill and parsley.

(Other favorite dishes of mine at Cafe Glechik are the green borscht and the luxuriously oily smoked mackerel.)

Cafe Glechik: 3159 Coney Island Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 616-0494.

The German-American Parade 2003: Sept. 20

Tomorrow, they'll break out the bratwurst and serve up the sauerkraut at the annual German-American Parade. The Spaten and Warsteiner beer will be flowing, as will the Niche wine. After you've eaten a few Karl Ehmer brats, don't forget to stop by the Alma's Desserts tent.

In other Deutschland-related news, German biergarten Loreley will celebrate its
grand opening on Oct. 4 with live music, food tastings and 12 beers.

The German-American Steuben Parade 2003 will take place at 12 p.m. along 5th Ave. from 63rd St. to 86th St. Loreley is located at 7 Rivington St. (212) 253-7077.

Alfama (CLOSED 8/09)

I've sorely missed O Padeiro, the Portuguese bakery formerly in Chelsea. Therefore, it was a comfort to discover Alfama, where I drowned my nostalgia in vinho verde. My favorite items at O Padeiro were the pasteis de nata (small round custard tarts with incredibly flaky crusts). Alfama sells them by the dozen and includes a few for free with the check!

Wednesday nights at Alfama are fado nights, so make a reservation to hear the traditional music of Portugal. Women draped in black sing passionately while the homesick Portuguese at the bar hum along to the beloved melodies.

The highlights of my meal were the cheese plate and the dessert (I couldn't quite adjust to the extreme saltiness of the bacalhau in my main course). My cheese choices included the evora (a hard cheese reminiscent of Manchego), a spicy paprika-dusted Toledo, and a creamy soft-ripened Serpa. Next time I will try the peppercorn-encrusted Ribafria and the Serra, one of Portugal's most famous cheeses.

Whenever I spy the word "trio" in a selection on the dessert menu, I always order that item in hopes that it will provide three times the pleasure of an ordinary dessert. The doces conventuais was comprised of three traditional Portuguese egg-based desserts: fio de ovos, or sweet angel hair; abade de priscos (rich dense egg-yolk flan) and the transcendent toucinho do ceu, a delicious egg cake made with Algarvean almonds.

I finished things off with a bica (espresso) and staggered off into the night.

Alfama: 551 Hudson St., (212) 645-2500.

Eat For Free In NYC

If you haven't got a ha'penny, there are still some dining options for you! This week at Cowgirl (519 Hudson St., 212-633-1133), free muffins (and milk) are being served to celebrate the start of the school season. But make sure you start up your engine early; the freebie is only available from 8:15-8:30 a.m.

Although there's no such thing as a free lunch, Village (62 West 9th St., 212-505-3355) lets its happy hour guests stuff themselves with tasty fried polenta. And if you're a downtown resident or employee, the free all-you-can-eat sushi extravaganza is still going on every Thursday night this month from 5-8 p.m. at Unity Restaurant (102 North End Ave., at Embassy Suites, 646-769-4200).

Deluxe Food Market Inc.

Are you the most adventurous carnivore whom you know? Do your friends shake their heads in disbelief when you order the alligator special? Then I'd urge you to check out Chinatown's Deluxe Food Market Inc., where you will be amply rewarded in your search for mystery meats. The narrow, brightly lit shop is filled to the gills with preserved duck necks, salted duck tails, smoked duck feet, fresh squab, dried shrimp sausage and something called "chicken paste". (Your more conservative friends will enjoy the baby back ribs and fresh fish.) Look for the roasted ducks hanging in the window.

Deluxe Food Market Inc.: 79 Elizabeth St., (212) 925-5766.

Bayard's Heirloom Tomato Festival -- Today!

Forgo that after-work cocktail today and head over to Stone Street downtown, where Bayard's Restaurant will host its first Heirloom Tomato Festival from 5 to 9 p.m. The tomatoes are all products of the chef's 50-acre organic farm. Bring your appetite; the festival will include a large buffet!

Vacation On The Vineyard

On Martha's Vineyard this week, I happened to pick up this week's New Yorker, where I found my thoughts mirrored in Calvin Trillin's paean to classic and simple foods: "What Happened To Brie And Chablis?"

If you don't have a copy of the magazine, here is a snippet of Trillin's witty poem on page 69:

"You miss, let's say, trout amandine?
Take hope from some menus I've seen:
Fondue has been spotted of late
And -- yes, to my near disbelief --
Tartare not from tuna but beef.
They all may return. Just you wait."

Now, I am as big a fan of squash blossoms and huitlacoche as anyone, but I still find comfort in old-fashioned recipes and simple ingredients. This week, I indulged in locally-caught smoked bluefish from Larsen's Fish Market of Menemsha, some downright fantastic brick-oven pizza at Lattanzi's, a breakfast of poached eggs over cayenne-spiked crab cakes at The Daggett House (Closed as of 2004), a wonderful linguine with garlicky white clam sauce at Chesca's (oh, the visceral pleasure of those impeccably fresh littlenecks), and rich creamy fudge at Murdick's (one variety made with Cape Cod cranberries).

I also conducted my own informal fish-and-chips contest, involving Nancy's Harborview Restaurant, Seafood Shanty, The Wharf Restaurant and the winner: The Black Dog Tavern. The Black Dog's superior rendition was a plate of steaming moist fish in a crispy cornmeal crust over a heap of French fries, served with a side of homemade slaw.

When I recover from this week of excess, I will be ready to sample more of the Big Apple's glorious offerings! Stay tuned for new reviews.

Yet Another Reason To Eat Chocolate...

Here's some good news for chocoholics! After reading this article, I feel even more justified in my decision to order that large dark chocolate gelato at Cones (see below post).

Cones

On Blackout Thursday, I was struck by a mortal craving for the dark chocolate gelato at Cones. Alas, I was in the thick of the crowd on the Brooklyn Bridge, inching towards home. I could only daydream about this cold, creamy treat made with three kinds of Dutch and German chocolate. I thought of Cones' fresh homemade whipped cream and visualized the glass case full of scrumptious flavors. Although my heart belongs to the dark chocolate gelato, I also enjoy the chocolate almond and dulce de leche varieties. Needless to say, when the lights came back on, I made a beeline for Cones.

Cones: 272 Bleecker St., (212) 414-1795. Open till 1 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays!

Quartino

Most of the mahogany-paneled restaurants downtown are billed as having been open since 1600, and they specialize in giant steaks seemingly aged since then. Therefore, it is refreshing to walk into the high-ceilinged, airy Quartino, a Ligurian restaurant tucked away below the Brooklyn Bridge exit ramp. I never expected to find such an oasis of charm just one block away from South Street!

Quartino bottles its own wine, makes its own pasta, and buys fresh fish from the Seaport every day. Chef Ivo Rossi is passionate about his peppery Ligurian olive oil and his organic crusty bread. I ate so much of this bread today that I worried about finishing my entrée. No matter, I inhaled the al dente fettucini with sweet cherry tomatoes, strips of basil and melted chunks of mozzarella in a split second. (Other pastas on the menu include vegetable ravioli in walnut sauce and pappardelle al pesto.) If you want something lighter, there are panini, pizzas and a salad of Sicilian tuna, string beans and potatoes. (Of course, if you want something heavier, by all means order the moist bittersweet chocolate cake!)

There have been so many times when I've unsuccessfully roamed the Seaport in search of something yummy. From now on, I'll head straight over to the corner of Peck Slip and Water Street!

Quartino: 21 Peck Slip, (212) 349-4433. Look for the umbrellas.

An Exquisite Evening: Dinner at Sushi Yasuda, Dessert at ChikaLicious Dessert Bar

I wish every night could be as wonderful as this one. Tonight, my companion and I feasted on innumerable varieties of fish at Sushi Yasuda, then continued the feast with a three-course dessert at ChikaLicious Dessert Bar.

Sushi Yasuda, named for its chef, is a shrine to the art of sushi. The sushi menu is categorized by the type of fish. There are five kinds of eel and seven cuts of tuna alone! Every night, Chef Yasuda circles his personal recommendations on the a la carte menu.

We began with a couple of intriguing seafood appetizers that we hadn't seen elsewhere: chunks of fried tuna in a light starchy batter, and flash-fried eel backbones. The latter were vaguely reminiscent of cracklings and had that same addictive property. We then tried some of the special fish of the evening: charred, sweet barbecued white eel, medium-fatty tuna that almost fell apart with tenderness, and wild salmon roe that were deliciously salty and fresh. Some other establishments serve pre-packaged eel and sugary roe; it is difficult not to be spoiled by the high quality at Sushi Yasuda.

Although some diners opt for the omakase (chef's choice), Sushi Yasuda also lets the diner choose the fish for his sushi or sashimi dinner. I like rich, oily fish, so I ordered mackerel, salmon, Spanish mackerel, kampachi (a type of yellowtail) and butterfish. Five piles of heaven!

After a mug of brown tea, it was time to cab it over to the East Village for dessert at ChikaLicious Dessert Bar, which opened just two weeks ago.

ChikaLicious is like your best friend's kitchen, if your best friend just happens to be a gourmet chef. As you sit expectantly at the marble countertop, you can watch Chef Chika zest a lemon over a bowl of slivered almonds in preparation for her delicious almond florentines. I was so fascinated by her activity that it took me a second to focus on the amuse bouche: a spoonful of brown sugar panna cotta marked with a roasted pistachio. A second treat soon appeared: a glass of yogurt sorbet with kiwi slices soaked in a sweet lavender syrup. The sugar focused my concentration, and I realized that I needed to try the chocolate baba au rhum with whipped cream and strawberry salad. It was impossible to resist the sight of all those small chocolate puffed cakes! The warm chocolate tart called to my companion. Everything was so delicious that it took us about two minutes to devour it all. But dessert was not yet over! A plate of beautiful petits fours soon arrived: homemade coconut marshmallows, chocolate basil truffles, and the afore-mentioned almond florentines. I think I'll go back tomorrow.

Sushi Yasuda: 204 E. 43rd St., (212) 972-1001 . Chikalicious Dessert Bar: 203 E. 10th St., (212) 995-9511.

New York's Most Decadent Sandwich

You are probably thinking of the corned beef at Katz's Deli. Instead, try to picture two thick slices of grilled chocolate bread oozing with melted Belgian chocolate chips, chocolate syrup and Nutella. Add banana slices, whipped cream and raspberries to the image. Where can you find this strange, yet wonderful concoction? At the Museum Of Natural History's temporary "Chocolate Cafe". Make sure to get there by the end of August!

Chocolate Cafe: American Museum of Natural History, Central Park West and 79th St., (212) 769-5000.

Klatch (CLOSED 4/09)

With great fanfare, my afternoon sweets craving announced its arrival. For the life of me, I could not decide whether I wanted a coconut doughnut from the Doughnut Plant or an orange brioche from the Balthazar Bakery. I calculated the walking distance to both places; a more difficult calculation was the relative strength of each desire. Fortunately, due to the recent opening of Klatch, I didn't need to make a choice! Only four months old, this adorable little coffee bar offers the best of both worlds: a selection of the Doughnut Plant's superlative handmade doughnuts and Balthazar's croissants, cookies and scones. I recommend accompanying all of this with a mug of Klatch's wonderful dark roast coffee, which is made with Porto Rico Importing Co. beans.

Klatch: 9-11 Maiden Lane, (212) 227-7276.

National Eel Day

The Japanese holiday which honors the eel fell on July 26 this year. The rich, tasty fish is supposed to revitalize you during the hot summer. For those of you who forgot to celebrate on Saturday, some Japanese restaurants in NYC are offering a special eel lunch today. Chikubu (CLOSED as of 4/07) will serve its annual $4.50 unagi lunch special (you may have to wait in line). Ise is offering a delicious double portion of eel over rice; finish one eel and a layer of rice only to discover another eel underneath!

Chikubu: 12 E. 44th St., (212) 818-0715. Ise: 56 Pine St., (212) 785-7660.

Nana

Monday is a dark day for sushi lovers in Park Slope. Blue Ribbon Sushi is closed, the door that leads to Gingko Leaf's Japanese garden paradise is locked (Closed as of 2004), and Geido's sushi bar is empty of rollicking patrons sharing bottles of Kirin. Last night, my friend and I wandered down 7th Avenue, mournfully listing options that were unavailable to us.

In frustration, my friend suggested getting Italian food. At that moment, a light went on in my head in the shape of the neon sign at Nana on 5th Avenue. I vaguely remembered appreciating the grilled salmon at this stylish pan-Asian, but I'd always satisfied my sushi cravings elsewhere. However, since there is nothing so uncomfortable as an unsatisfied longing for tuna sashimi, we decided to give Nana a try.

The yellowtail ceviche appetizer was a good omen: a colorful confetti of julienned red onions, peppers and carrots and small pieces of fish in a light soy vinaigrette. Well-salted edamame soon followed, and then it was time for the sashimi! My platter was a generous assortment of about 20 pieces of octopus, yellowtail, tuna, salmon, snapper, and scallop. I breathed a sigh of relief as the sushi beast was (temporarily) kept at bay.

Nana: 155 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 230-3749.

Raw New York

Every so often, interesting requests randomly appear in the SalliVates.com mailbox. Recently, I've been asked to locate "yogurt pucks", to procure a list of sea salt distributors, and to go on a date. Although I haven't been able to fulfill these particular requests, I am about to gladden the heart of a California reader. Her E-mail of last week was so intriguing that I felt compelled to rise to her challenge:

"Dear Salli,

I am a raw-food vegan who will be visiting NYC for the first time. I eat fruits, nuts, vegetables and sprouted grains, but no meats, dairy products or foods heated above 118 degrees. Are there any places I can eat?"

After verifying that the writer was serious (how does one live without chocolate and fondue?), I set off on a mission to see if she could find nourishment in New York.

First, I walked over to Eat Raw, a store which trumpets its cause right in the name. In addition to offering natural skin care products, Eat Raw sells crackers, cookies, nut butters, dried fruit and walnut-tahini "truffles". Unfortunately, I found the onion "Essene" bread and apple crunch bars very difficult to chew. I had better luck with the "Raweos", which tasted more like macaroons than Oreos (and that's a good thing).

Next, I took the F train to the East Village and strode into Live Live, where the proprietor was astonishingly thin! Looking at him, I immediately craved a huge plate of fettucini alfredo, but I squelched the urge (I was on a mission, remember) and bought a $6 package of "mac & cheese" instead. This concoction was a bar of macadamia nuts, kale, and red pepper; disturbingly, it was somewhat reminiscent of macaroni and cheese. I was reminded of astronaut food, and indeed, one of the brands offered at Live Live is "Moon Foods".

Next door to Live Live is NYC's only raw foods chain: Quintessence. With three locations, Quintessence has been detoxifying New Yorkers since 1999. Their philosophy is: "Treat your body like a temple and it will be heaven again." (Personally, I find it pretty easy to feel heavenly; I just pop a Knipschildt truffle into my mouth.)

I invited an adventurous companion to Quintessence for a raw foods adventure. We began our meal with the vegetable chowder, a delicious green puree thickened with nuts. The cold soup was perfect for the summertime. We were then to find that "raw" doesn't necessarily mean "quick"; our stomachs growled as we waited for our entrees. Our waitress patiently explained that my squash "spaghetti" was in the dehydrator. When it finally arrived, the "spaghetti" al pesto was interspersed with tasty marinated mushrooms and sundried tomatoes, but I couldn't get past the crunchy vegetal texture of the "pasta". My companion ordered the "round-the-world" platter: a sampling of hummus and falafel, malai kofta, "ravioli", a Japanese hand roll and a salad. The sunflower-seed pate in the hand roll played the role of a tuna tartare filling, and the raw hummus was actually very good, if a bit grainy.

Naturally, the highlight for me was dessert: a coconut cream pie had a sweet nut crust, and it was festively drizzled with carob syrup in an approximation of chocolate sauce. No, carob is not chocolate, but at least it looks like it.

(I am ashamed to admit that I ended the evening with a trip to Il Gelatone.)

Eat Raw: 426 15th St., Brooklyn, (718) 210-0048. Live Live, 261 E. 10th St., (212) 505-5504. Quintessence: 263 E. 10th St., (646) 654-1804.

Chocolate Tastings At The Museum Of Natural History

Here's an educational way to sweeten up your weekends throughout the summer.

Brunch At Paradou (Closed as of 1/31/04)

Yesterday, I awoke with a craving for crepes. As the morning wore on, I also developed an intense craving for chocolate truffles (an almost daily occurrence). Fortunately, I was able to satisfy both desires in one place: the new Paradou in Park Slope.

Our savory whole-wheat crepes (ham, Comte cheese and egg with a hint of Dijon mustard, and smoked salmon with lemon creme fraiche and asparagus) were gigantic and generous with filling. The crepes were folded over to make room for refreshing green salads.

Not once in my life have I been able to resist ordering a dessert crepe when I see one on the menu. It was easy to succumb to the temptation at Paradou, which offers six sweet varieties. Since I was with fellow chocolate lovers, we shared the chocolate creme de menthe (a light, eggy crepe filled with melted dark chocolate and doused with mint syrup) and the sugar-sprinkled Nutella banana.

At this point I was quite full, but I mustered up all of my remaining appetite for the Joel Durand truffles, for which Paradou is the exclusive U.S. distributor. The complex flavors of these exotic treats rivaled those of Bernard Callebaut and Jacques Torres. I was especially impressed by the herbal green cardamom, the Corsican bitter honey, and the salted butter caramel. On future visits, I plan to try the entire collection!

Paradou: 426 7th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 499-5557. For Manhattanites, the original location is 8 Little West 12th St., (212) 463-8345.

Pearl Oyster Bar

The blazing sun heralded the arrival of summer after weeks of rain. Naturally, my thoughts turned to lobster rolls. Since I was not able to go to the beach, I took the F train to the West Village and walked into the much-beloved Pearl Oyster Bar. However, once inside the shellfish mecca, I became distracted by the various delicacies which competed for my attention. Jumbo lump crabcakes, fried oyster rolls... the embarrassment of riches overwhelmed me. After much soul-searching, I finally decided on a golden-brown pan-fried cod fillet on thick toasted bread with caper tartar sauce, red onion and ripe tomato, served with a heap of toothpick-thin shoestring fries. When I remarked upon the capers in the tartar sauce, the friendly waitress offered, "If you want the recipe, you'll find it in this new book just released by chef Rebecca Charles!" I glanced at the blueberry crumble pie recipe; now I can't wait until the blueberries are in season!

Pearl Oyster Bar: 18 Cornelia Street, (212) 691-8211.

Alice's Tea Cup

Is the constant rain getting you down? Shake the rain off your umbrella and walk down a couple steps to the warm and inviting Alice's Tea Cup. Pour yourself a pot of exotic vanilla-scented Mauritius tea or Red Fruits Indian tea flavored with strawberry, raspberry, red currant and cherry. Then you'll be ready for a flaky and buttery fresh-baked scone served with raspberry jam and clotted cream (I especially appreciate the strawberry scones). Or if you'd like something savory, bite into a mustardy tuna salad sandwich. If you bring friends under the age of two, they will appreciate the daily homemade pureed baby food. If you'd like to postpone your reentry into the puddle that passes for Manhattan these days, take a moment to admire all of the tea-oriented gifts up front (lovely teapots and toiletries like "Body Tea").

Alice's Tea Cup: 102 West 73rd St., (212) 799-3006.

How Much Do I Love NYC?

Let me count the calories...

Finally, Good Pizza In Park Slope!

Last night my companion and I decided to take a walk down 5th Ave. in Brooklyn. We were hungry for something Italian, but we didn't want to pull out all the stops at Al Di La. I made a mental list of the casual dining options in the area and realized that I would probably have to settle for a sandwich. However, as we began to walk in the direction of Press 195, I noticed a large and bustling restaurant on the right side of the street. Drawing closer, I saw a counter overflowing with large pizza pies and a sign that said "La Villa".

Apparently, the new Park Slope location of this Howard Beach pizzeria is the only one with a wood-burning oven, and some of the results are comparable to Nick's in Forest Hills: the crisp and textured crust provides the foundation for a toothsome combination of thinly sliced fresh mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes, herbs and olive oil. Both thin (Napoletana) and thick-crusted (Siciliana) varieties of pizza are available. I could not believe our good luck as I bit into a garlicky focaccia di nonna, or "grandma's pizza", which I preferred to the blander margherita. My companion and I also split a large plate of fried zucchini and an order of penne with sauteed spinach. On my next visit, which should be within the week, I shall either try one of the grilled panini or the sottosopra, an "upside-down" pizza with layers of homemade mozzarella baked under the sauce. If you beat me to it, please feel free to E-mail me a report!

La Villa: 261 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 499-9888.

How To Prevent A Food Fight

Apparently, criminal charges may be filed against a group of food-hurling students. The news reports do not specify which foods were being thrown, but I imagine that they weren't particularly tasty. However, a new approach to school food could provide a solution to the problem of projectile pizza.

A Delightful Weekday Breakfast

I decided to prolong the relaxation of my vacation with a leisurely breakfast at 'ino. Their breakfast menu offers several variations on the theme of eggs and bread: truffled egg toast, bruschetta topped with scrambled eggs and either asparagus or pancetta, and my personal favorite: egg and fontina with caramelized onions on grilled ciabatta from Blue Ribbon Bakery. A glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice, a strong latte and a glance at the paper completed my transition back into the rhythms of NYC.

'ino: 21 Bedford St., (212) 989-5769

A Note From The Road

For those of you who feel that sweets are a philosophy, here is an exhibit I have just attended that may be of interest to you. (After three weeks of Canadian ice wine, Saskatoon berries and wild Pacific salmon, I shall fly back to New York on Sunday.)

Ah...Vacation!

Your partner in gluttony will be away for three weeks. However, you can still salivate over these archives! While you are doing so, you might want to munch on one of Payard's chocolate almond cakes. Ta ta!

Jewel Bako

"We have some OUTSTANDING fish tonight!" enthused Jack Lamb, the owner of sushi nirvana Jewel Bako. Sitting in the small gilt and bamboo-appointed room, my companion and I exchanged a look of anticipation. After briefly perusing the menu, we decided to go with the chef's choice (omakase), which ended up being ten courses of utter delight!

First up was a small "gift from the chef" of grated daikon, salmon roe and a tiny shiso leaf. This was served with Yatsushiku sake, which tasted to me of caramel. We also sampled the Cherry Blossom sake, a lighter variety, and the intense "Dragon's Quivering Tongue", described by Lamb as "diabolical". (Throughout the evening, we delighted in listening to Lamb's wealth of information; he is a walking encyclopedia of Japanese food and culture. Who knew that there were over 2,000 kinds of sake in Japan?)

We then enjoyed a refreshing salad of wild greens and green tea noodles in a light soy dressing garnished with pine nuts and shimeji mushrooms. A gorgeous cylinder of tuna tartare was next, then a foil package of three types of steam-roasted Japanese mushrooms.

Next up was our first taste of what makes Jewel Bako a local legend. An extraordinary sashimi course included three kinds of yellowtail, baby firefly squid with a sweet miso dip, red snapper and live shrimp ("Just tickle it and it wiggles," joked Lamb). Everything was at the peak of freshness; I could have been at the Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo.

A clear soup tasted mildly of bonito and featured two crumbly yellowtail "meatballs" and tart strips of citrus zest.

Finally, it was time for the piece de resistance: an oblong plate dotted with 11 pieces of sushi! Among the standouts were: fresh sea eel as rich as liver (never will I eat that microwaved barbecued eel ever again), the ultimate belly of fatty tuna, a sweet clam, lightly seared Japanese black bass, salty white salmon, Kyoto-style pressed sushi, and the chef's special: jack mackerel tartare with spicy baby ginger under a peelaway shiso leaf. Every bite was so delicious that I had to close my eyes.

As if that weren't enough, we were in for three dessert courses: a rich, floral coconut lychee sorbet, a special pastry from Payard which was a teardrop of green tea cake filled with strawberry jam and topped with vanilla mousse, and some crunchy peanut cookies from Kyoto with organic Yamaguchi plum wine.

The courses were spread out so that we had an opportunity to bask in a Zen-like appreciation of every dish. Each edible landscape of colors and textures was presented to us on a plate of a different shape. Jewel Bako's aesthetic, combined with its absolute passion for freshness and attention to detail, made for a top-notch sushi experience!

Jewel Bako: 239 E. 5th St., (212) 979-1012.

Yonah Schimmel Knishery

Do you have a palate but no wallet? The humane folks at Yonah Schimmel Knishery will stuff you to the gills for less than the price of a round-trip Metrocard. For $2-3, you can inhale a giant, flaky knish overflowing with your choice of filling: traditional potato, oniony kasha, sweet potato, broccoli, jalapeno cheddar, or even pizza! And for those of your relatives who have the misfortune of not residing in NYC (or who refuse to leave the Upper East Side), Schimmel's will ship the luscious knishes anywhere in the continental US.

Yonah Schimmel Knishery: 137 E. Houston St., (212) 477-2858.

Afternoon Tea At The Mark Hotel (CLOSED)

Grandma immensely enjoyed our tea at Fauchon, so we decided to recreate the experience at The Mark Hotel. At The Mark, there are three varieties of afternoon tea: the Mandarin, which features Chinese tea and almond cookies baked to order, the Strawberry Cream Tea, which includes strawberries and Chantilly cream, and the traditional Afternoon Tea (our choice). Grandma was a huge fan of the chicken mousse tea sandwich and the smoked salmon on black bread. Also gracing our plates were thick slices of banana bread, tiny chocolate tarts, pineapple coconut cakes and homemade raisin scones with mascarpone cheese. (For the persnickety in our party, there was a bloody-rare burger with fries.) Generously, our waiter provided extra complimentary sandwiches and pots of Ceylon tea. If you would like to learn about the art of Chinese tea, you can still snag a spot at the June 6 class with with Tea Master Ringo Lo (call 212-879-1864 for information and reservations).

The Mark Hotel: 25 East 77th St., (212) 744-4300.

A Rainbow Of Marzipan

Some people buy the same shirt in several different colors; I just buy marzipan bars in different flavors. At Teuscher Chocolates Of Switzerland, foil-wrapped marzipan is color-coded by flavor: pink for raspberry, yellow for lemon, green for pistachio, blue for plain. I just bought one of each!

Teuscher Chocolates Of Switzerland: 620 5th Ave. at Rockefeller Center, (212) 246-4416.

Love In The Clouds

First cigarettes, now Oreos may eventually go the way of the dodo bird. However, you can still enjoy a nominally healthier version of the latter at the Two Little Red Hens bakery. Their cookie creation, enticingly named "Love In The Clouds", is a chocolate-pepper cookie sandwich with a layer of sugary vanilla cream in the middle.

Two Little Red Hens: 1652 Second Ave., (212) 452-0476.

Upcoming Event: Brittany Wine Dinner At Cocotte (CLOSED AS OF 2008)

After inhaling a molten chocolate cake at Cocotte this evening, I was reminded of some information that I meant to impart to you sooner:

The Prospect Wine Shop, in concert with Cocotte Restaurant, will be celebrating the cuisine of Brittany on Tuesday, May 6 with a special tasting dinner. The four-course meal, which features such delicacies as "Leg of Rabbit Braised in Breton Honey-and-Apple Liqueur, Bacon and Dried Plums, Served with Yukon Gold Purée" and "Seared Maine Diver Sea Scallops with Grilled Portobello Mushrooms in a Vermouth Herbed Cream Sauce," will be complemented by wines from the Loire Valley. For reservations, please call Christine at Cocotte: (718) 832-6848.

Cocotte Restaurant: 337 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 832-6848.

Attention: "Gustatory Athletes"

Were you always the last to be chosen for the kickball team? Do you primarily attend baseball games for the hot dogs and cotton candy? Don't despair, there's still a competitive sport for you.

Beyond Biscotti

The practice of accompanying a cappuccino with a cookie has been popularized by Starbucks, which sells overly sweet, prepackaged biscotti. Let me offer you some toothsome variations on the caffeine-and-sugar theme.

If you can tear your eyes from the pastries at Tarallucci E Vino, you will notice some very special glass jars near the cashier. One is filled with torroncini. This orange-scented, honey-sweetened delight is halfway between an almond nougat candy bar and a cookie. A touch of black pepper renders it irresistible and addictive, but if you'd like something with more crunch, try the pepatelli: long, cinnamon-y almond cookies topped with a layer of meringue.

(If you can't tear your eyes from the pastries, by all means, succumb. There are chocolate-filled donuts, coronets, blueberry coconut cakes, eclairs, chocolate mousse and much more.)

Some afternoons find me in the long line at Crestanello, waiting to order some amaretti (three for $1) or pignoli with my cappuccino. The round amaretti are soft in the center and sugar-dusted, and the coffee is proudly custom-blended. (Crestanello is a great choice for a quick Italian lunch without table service. The cafe even imports its own olive oil.) I am the woman sitting near the front who can't restrain herself from eating the cookies before her penne al pomodoro.

Tarallucci E Vino, 163 First Ave., (212) 388-1190. Crestanello Gran Caffe Italiano: 475 Fifth Ave., (212) 545-9996.

Japanese Sweets at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden

This weekend, celebrate the warmer weather with a Japanese pastry or three. Chef Motohiro Inaba of beloved tearoom Toraya will be providing a demonstration on the preparation of the festive Japanese sweets known as wagashi. You can see the artist at work on Saturday, April 26 from 12-1 p.m at the BBG's Alfred T. White Memorial Amphitheater. Japanese food and beverages will be available at the cherry esplanade from 11-5:30, and pastries will be sold on the rotunda from 1-5 p.m. (Afterword: The bento boxes were truly horrid, but Toraya lived up to its name with ginger-perfumed "moon cakes" stuffed with moist, sweet red bean jam.)

Brooklyn Botanic Garden: 1000 Washington Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 623-7200. Or, if you'd rather go straight to the source, the Toraya tearoom is located at 17 E. 71st St., (212) 861-1700.

Afternoon Tea at Fauchon (CLOSED)

My grandmother never leaves the house without lipstick and heels. Being quite the social creature, she thrives on her excursions, but the harsh weather has made it difficult for her to go out. Last week, the thermostat finally reached 50 degrees, so I decided to pamper her with an afternoon tea. I just needed to find a sufficiently elegant venue for such a lady.

I found the perfect solution in Fauchon, the condiment nirvana that houses a charming tearoom. With its comfortable chairs and attentive waiters, Fauchon is an oasis of civility.

The extensive tea menu is organized into such categories as Ceylon, Assam, Darjeeling, Chinese, Japanese, flavored and herbal. Although I was intrigued by the geranium and ylang-ylang, I settled on a fragrant Earl Grey with flowers. I never knew that a cup of tea could be so flavorful! My grandmother opted for French-pressed coffee with a flask of warmed cream.

We ordered an afternoon tea for two. (There is also an a la carte menu, which includes light meals such as salads, quiches, and soups.) Our trays overflowed with five different tea sandwiches (I liked the cucumber watercress and the crabmeat), small crackers topped with either foie gras or smoked salmon belly, and sweets galore: raspberry linzer cookies, hazelnut sables, moelleux in flavors of pignoli, hazelnut, and pecan, small orange and chocolate eclairs, slices of fruitcake, petits fours, the famous almond-flour macarons, and finally, chocolates! Chocolates with the Fauchon emblem in gold, chocolates with a layer of crunchy rock sugar.

After a satisfied final sip of coffee, my delighted grandmother purchased an entire box of pistachio, apple, and chocolate-raspberry macarons to take home! (I think she will be venturing out very soon to replenish her supply.)

Fauchon: 442 Park Ave., (212) 308-5919. (There is also a much smaller location at 1000 Madison Ave.)

Acqua Pazza (Closed in 2006)

I love simply prepared fresh fish; the salt-baked bass at Al Di La is always delectable, as are the whole fish at Esca, Teodora and Milos Estiatorio. However, I may have just encountered a dish that blows all others out of the (ahem) water!

Acqua pazza, the signature dish of the eponymous eatery, is a whole fish baked a bath of seawater, Sicilian sea salt, white wine and cherry tomatoes, and drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil. The saltwater preparation renders the fish absolutely moist and flavorful. According to proprietor Umberto Arpaia, acqua pazza, or "crazy water", is the creation of Neapolitan fishermen who wanted to make sure they had something tasty to eat in case they were stranded in rough seas. Before setting out on a journey, they would stock up on olive oil and cherry tomatoes. Necessity is thus the mother of perfection! Today's fish was sea bass, which was accompanied by a small plate of chard and potatoes. Other fish on the menu include salmon, swordfish and grilled yellowfin tuna with balsamic vinegar.

My companion and I began our meal by dipping our warm crusty bread into the white bean scallion spread, then dug into bowls of sedanini. These were ribbed tubes of pasta interspersed with basil, plum tomatoes, and eggplant, and topped with zesty salted ricotta. (On my next visit, I will have to try the intriguing tagliolini al caffe: espresso noodles with white shrimp and porcini mushrooms.)

After the afore-mentioned sea bass and a chicken paillard with mozzarella and tomato, a small plate of homemade cookies made their appearance. The sugar-dusted pistachio biscotti and small chocolate-dipped butter cookies were perfect with coffee, but we went the extra mile and ordered zuccotto, a dome of chocolate mousse with caramel and passionfruit coulis. Maybe next time we'll sample the baba (sponge cake) with a choice of Haitian, Anguillan or Puerto Rican rum, or the sinfonia, a trio of chocolate sorbet, flourless chocolate cake, and rich dark chocolate mousse. One thing is certain; I am now a perfect sailing companion, as my meal at Acqua Pazza has transformed me into a human flotation pillow.

Acqua Pazza: 36 W. 52nd St., (212) 582-6900.

Battle of the Brunches (Part 1)

This past weekend, I made it my business to brunch at two different French bistros in Brooklyn: Moutarde and Loulou. Although both have much to recommend them, Loulou (CLOSED AS OF 6/09) really claimed a corner of my heart (and more than a corner of my stomach).

At Moutarde, I appreciated the pain au chocolat and buttery croissants in the breadbasket. The orange juice is not fresh-squeezed, but the coffee is good and strong. The menu mostly consists of egg dishes such as omelettes and scrambled eggs with caramelized onions. I did enjoy my generously hollandaised salmon Eggs Benedict with mesclun greens and roasted potatoes; the English muffins were crisply toasted.

Loulou is charming, rustic, and tiny. Watching the heaping plates of pain perdu (bourbon French toast) pass by, I felt as though I was living in Babette's Feast. The menu offers more variety than that of Moutarde, and the fresh orange juice is honey-sweet. I couldn't decide between the moules frites, palette (bread, egg and vegetable pancake), or the apple cinnamon crêpe. Finally I delighted in a savory egg and cheese crêpe with green salad. However, it wasn't quite enough to sate my legendary appetite, so I gave in to the craving for a warm bread pudding. Dense and eggy, sweet with maple syrup and smothered with melted semi-sweet chocolate, it was a recipe from heaven.

Moutarde: 239 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 623-3600. Loulou: 222 DeKalb Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 246-0633.

"Dessert Pizza" in the East Village

Crunchy pizza crust smothered with hazelnut-chocolate spread is a wonderful, if unlikely, new trend. At Pie, they serve it open-faced with sliced bananas. At Lil' Frankie's, they stuff it with strawberries and sprinkle the top with confectioners' sugar. I don't know which version is my favorite... I suppose I will have to sample each one many times over!

Pie: 124 4th Ave., (212) 475-4977. Lil' Frankie's: 19 1st Ave., (212) 420-4900.

Crunch Time for Pennsylvania (Or Is That Munch Time?)

The Pennsylvania State Senate is wrangling over a bill that would designate the esteemed chocolate-chip cookie as "the official cookie of the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania." Among the bill's arguments: "Pennsylvania is the nation's fourth largest producer of milk, which is the perfect partner to the chocolate chip cookie." I can't disagree with that, but I dare say that if the legislators bit into a chocolate-chunk cookie at NYC's Tuscan Square, they might be humbled into retracting their bill, or at least relocating to New York. The Tuscan Square rendition is a satisfying mouthful of butter, brown sugar, and large semi-sweet chocolate chunks. It's even better when you warm it with your cup of coffee so that the chocolate melts in your mouth.

Tuscan Square: 16 W. 51st St., (212) 977-7777.

Kudos for Kudo! (CLOSED 2009)

Do you long for true flavor in your coffee? Do you savor a sip of java like you would a fine wine? But most of all, do you agree that the popular practice of over-roasting coffee beans robs the beverage of its attributes?

Your antidote to burnt-tasting, one-note coffee is Kudo Beans, an East Village café where all of the cashiers are walking encyclopedias of coffee knowledge. Great beans and helpful employees make for a winning combination. On a recent evening, Valerie recommended a fruity Ethiopian Harrar with low acidity, and Guy informed us of a great deal: buy a pound of coffee and get a half-pound free! All coffees are labeled with detailed descriptions. The café, which owns a roasting facility in Queens, bakes croissants and muffins in-house, but also serves pastries from Mother Fortune.

Kudo Beans has some exciting plans in its future. This Thursday, the grand opening of the store will feature live jazz and free food from 6-8 pm. There will soon be a series of "cuppings and tastings" (for more information, contact info@kudobeans.com), and the 28 wonderful varieties of Kudo Coffee will soon be served at a Times Square bookstore. Look out, Starbucks!

Kudo Beans: 49 1/2 1st Ave., (212) 353-1477.

Grace On The Go (Closed as of June '03)

This gourmet take-away has only been open since Friday, and people are already coming in to say, "I heard the prosciutto and blue cheese sandwich was great; pack me one of those." Today, it was a feat to get past the videocameras, reporters and inquisitive Slopers in order to peruse the offerings. Good food on 7th Avenue is a real event.

Susan Knightly, the charming chef and manager, said of her creamy squash bisque: "This was a lovely year for squash, they were so sweet. Because of their flavor, it was easy to make the soup low-fat; I just caramelized some onions and added some low-fat milk." (I promptly made off with a pint.) Knightly orders her baked goods from Sullivan Street Bakery; their chewy focaccia sends me into seventh heaven. (As of April, Amy's Bread is their supplier of choice.) I ordered a seared tuna nicoise salad with wonderful garlicky dressing, interspersed bites with the aforementioned focaccia, and ended things with a big chocolate-chip cookie. When I go back (tomorrow), I will buy a brick of macaroni and cheese and perhaps a key lime pie.

Grace's is open from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m, with deliveries at all times. There is a "coffee window" for harried commuters who need those muffins and steaming cups of java on their way to the F train. I know I do!

Grace On The Go: 352 7th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 499-2019.

"The Original" New York Milkshake Co. (Closed as of Mar. 06)

Many moons ago, my great-grandparents owned a candy store in Yorkville, where they dispensed all manner of sodas and egg creams to the neighborhood. They imparted their soda skills to my grandfather, who would scour the Lower East Side for the special chocolate and strawberry syrups he used to make the drinks. One of my last memories of him was watching him go to the refrigerator after I had pleaded for one of his sodas.

Now, Scott Marcus is recreating the authentic New York egg cream experience at his new East Village shop. Opened just two weeks ago, "The Original" New York Milkshake Co. is already serving up large doses of comfort by means of grilled cheese sandwiches, milkshakes, malteds, and giant Whoopee pies (courtesy of the nearby Sticky Fingers Bake Shop). This evening, Scott meticulously coached a new employee in the art of the egg cream while I watched. He then set an overflowing, fizzing cup beside me, urging, "Drink it like a beer!" How could I resist?

Scott plans to begin a delivery service of his nostalgic treats in the next few weeks.

"The Original" New York Milkshake Co.: 37 St. Mark's Place, (212) 505-5200.

Wine and Cheese

Excuse my ebullience; I am rather tipsy. A friend just introduced me to the best-kept secret in Manhattan: the $5 wine tasting at Vintage New York. This charming boutique sells New York-produced wines and cheeses. Sitting at the bar, we admired the Siamese cat and allowed our friendly host Isaiah to guide us through the vast wine list. Not content just to imbibe, we accompanied our reds and whites with award-winning Hudson Valley Camembert and Ewe's Blue from the Old Chatham Sheepherding Company. It was quite an experience to smear the buttery Camembert on slices of baguette in between sips of various wines. Isaiah was generous and threw in a free extra tasting, so I took his suggestion and ordered the refreshing Red Newt Riesling with notes of apples, lychee, and tropical fruits.

Preparing to float out of the store, I suddenly glimpsed a plate of chocolate truffles from 5th Avenue Chocolatiere. Why hadn't I noticed that before? An evening isn't complete without a bite of chocolate.

Vintage New York: 482 Broome St., (212) 226-9463. Also located at 2492 Broadway, (212) 721-9999.

Mardi Gras

If you can't make it down to Bourbon Street on Tuesday, I guarantee that one bite of Aunt Sally's Pralines will transport you to New Orleans. You can pick up these scrumptious pecan delights at Martha Frances Mississippi Cheesecake (1707 2nd Ave., 212-360-0900). While you munch, you can learn about Fat Tuesday traditions at the official Mardi Gras Website!

Ah, Popovers...

When I was a child, I ate my first popover at Normandie Farms, a rustic French restaurant in Maryland. The hot, fluffy rolls, airy and rich at once, made quite an impression on me. But it was not until this year that I rediscovered this childish pleasure, and in duplicate! There are two places that dispense this manna from heaven on the West Side.

According to Emmanuel Marais of the New York Popover Company (789 9th Ave., 1-800-POPOVER), the venerable popover was a New England creation of the late 1800's. Now, over 100 years later, Messr. Marais has altered the original popover recipe to produce many delightful variations. Today, he was serving them up in apple, chocolate chip, and banana chocolate chip varieties. Marais has also come up with fun new ways to eat popovers; he stuffs them with strawberries and cream, or apple compote, or even savory fillings like teriyaki chicken. I hope they still have some left for you; I just bought nine of them.

If you're looking for a sit-down meal to which popovers are a delightful accessory rather than the main focus, go further uptown to the Popover Café (551 Amsterdam Ave., 212-595-8555). Eat an omelette or a salad, and keep ordering more popovers with homemade strawberry butter!

Heavenly Deliveries in Park Slope

The inclement weather has transformed my life into a sort of Remembrances of Meals Past. However, although I haven't done as much culinary exploring as usual, I have enjoyed some wonderful dinner deliveries. My favorites in Park Slope are: jerk chicken, spicy brown-stewed red snapper, and zippy ginger beer from Brawta Mini-Café (718-788-4870), vegetable curries and fat samosas from Curry Shop (718-832-7701), smoky chiles rellenos, roast half chicken, and cheese enchiladas from Los Pollitos (718-623-9152), and grilled sardines, crisp spring rolls, and stir-fried wide rice noodles with vegetables and egg from Long Tan (718-622-8444). Long Tan sends coupons to their repeat customers. Now it's time for me to sign off and place an order!

Is Spring Just Around The Corner?

I don't know, but the folks at Minamoto Kitchoan seem optimistic. Gone are the flavors of sweet potato and squash in their seasonal pastries; the Japanese bakery is now offering hanamurashi (cherry sponge cake), white peach jelly, and cherry blossom rice cakes to remind us that spring is fast approaching. But if your tastes are still firmly ensconced in winter territory, you could end a meal at Sushiden NY with the rich pumpkin flan.

Minamoto Kitchoan: 608 Fifth Avenue, (212) 489-3747. Sushiden NY: 123 W. 49th St., (212) 398-2800.

Blue Ribbon Sushi (Brooklyn)

Apparently we weren’t the only intrepid souls to venture out into the blizzard. Blue Ribbon Brooklyn was packed to the hilt with diners, and a line of people occupied themselves by shaking the snow off their boots while they waited to get in. Next door, the new Blue Ribbon Sushi was more sedate, so we bypassed the mob scene and prepared for a dimly lit, romantic evening.

It's the little things that make Blue Ribbon so special: the bowls of white miso that one mixes into the soup to taste, the homemade wasabi, and the soy sauce prepared especially for sushi (“It sticks to the fish,” explained our waiter).

Blue Ribbon offers a truly extensive selection of sushi, including king crab, blue crab, smoked yellowtail, and monkfish liver. The sushi menu is divided into seafood from the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. The specials of the day put me into seventh heaven: ikejima anago was a warm, subtly sweet cured baby eel, and yaki toro was a slice of meaty tuna belly, seared at the edges.

The chawan mushi, a hot egg custard, was a wonderful antidote to the chilly weather, although I was puzzled by the copious amount of crab stick at the bottom of the teacup. A sashimi deluxe included elegant rectangles of melt-in-your-mouth yellowtail, slivers of mackerel dotted with spicy radish, and three silky pieces of salmon on a lemon slice. Instead of the usual tuna or California roll, the sushi combination came with a technicolor avocado/caviar maki. Salmon roe were salty and fresh, with none of the unappetizing sweetness that sometimes mars them.

Stuffed to the seams, we nevertheless made room for a green tea crème brûlée. We then finished off our meal with Choya plum wine, delighting in the real plum floating in the glass. Then it was time to trudge through the snow. Note: As of September 2003, the quality of the sushi at Blue Ribbon Brooklyn seemed to have lost some of its consistency.

Blue Ribbon Sushi Brooklyn: 280 Fifth Ave., Park Slope, (718) 840-0404.

More Hot Chocolate

I was on my way to The City Bakery for the third time this month to try their hot chocolate of the day. Looking in the window, I saw contented people chatting away while they shared delicious pastries. But upon closer inspection, I realized that the counter was being cleared of goodies. The door was locked; I had gotten there too late.

If you also experience this unhappy turn of events, there is a solution: you can make your own flavored hot chocolate at home. A basic recipe is provided, as well as variations like mint and cardamom. There is even a recipe for marshmallows!

A Valentine's Day Dream

My aunt is prone to experiencing vivid dreams, but her latest one takes the cake (or candy)! Last night, a mysterious, handsome stranger showered her with boxes of chocolate marshmallows.

Sometimes we dream about what we wish for. After listening to my aunt's story, I realized that although I could not find her a mysterious, handsome stranger, I could definitely hunt down her desired candy.

On my recent trip to The City Bakery (below), I had made off with a box of stalagmite-sized chunks of Valrhona chocolate and a bag of oversized marshmallows. However, I needed to find a goody that combined both elements. When I headed into the Citarella to-go store today, I spotted the famous Sifers VALOMILK Candy Cups! The "original flowing center" chocolate marshmallow cups, lovingly produced by the same family since 1903, were the result of a happy accident: a failed, runny batch of marshmallows was scooped into chocolate cups to create a divinely messy treat! They are truly a dream, and a dream come true.

Citarella To Go: 1250 Sixth Ave., (212) 332-1599.

Something To Warm Up Your Day...

It is now the time of year for one of New York's most delightful traditions: the Hot Chocolate Festival at The City Bakery! Since 1992, The City Bakery has been pouring steaming mugs of cocoa in flavors of ginger, mango tea, chili pepper, and even beer. Today's flavor was a thick caramel cocoa, slightly sweeter than the dark bittersweet original. I jumped at the chance to add a giant homemade marshmallow, which melted luxuriously into my hot drink. If you're looking for something a little more substantial, check out the amazing salad bar and crunchy-topped macaroni and cheese.

The City Bakery: 3 W. 18th St., New York, NY, (212) 366-1414.

Brick Lane Curry House and Dowel Quality Products, Inc.

Variety is the spice of life, and a variety of spices adds much to one's life! At Brick Lane Curry House, the rust-colored walls are literally painted with spices. The crispy papadums that start the meal are redolent of asafoetida, and rice is fragrant with cloves (and fried onions and parsley). Although I loved my dakshimi (southern) curry, a profusion of peas, potatoes, eggplant, peppers, mushrooms and golden raisins in a rich green coconut sauce, I could have lived on the paneer kulcha. This piping hot, buttery pita bread was stuffed with toasted sesame seeds, parsley and small melted bits of salty cheese.

Brick Lane is extremely vegetarian-friendly; meat is cooked with separate utensils, and independent local farms provide the veggies. The menu is very descriptive; one item is candidly listed as providing "more pain and sweat than flavor."

If you find that you've stuffed yourself as full as the kulcha, head around the corner to Dowel Quality Products, Inc., for a bottle of fennel seeds to improve your digestion. While you're there, you can buy Pakistani rose petal preserves, a rainbow of red, white, green and yellow split peas, preserved lemons and every spice you can think of. But if you seek peace, love, money or a special heart's desire, purchase one of the candles in the shape of human figures. According to the folks at Dowel, a green figurine brings prosperity and a black figurine will grant you that special wish. But if you wish for a nice spicy curry, you don't have to indulge in any fancy rituals: just go to Brick Lane Curry House!

Brick Lane Curry House: 342 E. 6th St., (212) 979-2900. Dowel Quality Products, Inc: 91 1st Ave., (212) 979-6045.

eBay edibles

It was only a matter of time before good meals were auctioned on eBay. Many $25 gift certificates are available for only $1; I just bid on a dinner at Brick Lane Curry House. There are also certificates for DeGrezia, The Palm, and Miss Maude's Spoonbread!

Escape From New York

Trying to dodge this Arctic weather pattern, I flew to Florida. Although it was almost as wintry down there, I did manage to seek some relief at Blood’s Hammock Groves (est. 1949). Blood's distills the essence of sunlight into their incredibly delicious citrus juices. They also offer baskets of whole fruit and condiments such as mango butter and guava jelly. Call (800) 255-5188 for delivery to your New York apartment.

Cookie Island and the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory

Age is a state of mind; if you're looking to regain your youth, you might want to head downtown to Cookie Island and Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory. I felt about five years old as I jumped for joy over the selection at Cookie Island; the only difference was that no one prohibited me from having seconds. I delighted over the almond coconut crunch and peanut butter chip, and I thought I tasted a hint of cinnamon in the chocolate chip.

When I glimpsed the giant caramelized Granny Smith apples in the window at Rocky Mountain, my childhood summers at the boardwalk immediately came back to me. Black forest fudge, chocolate-covered dried pears, deep, dark gooey "killer chocolate" ice cream, and velvet chocolate truffle syrup will certainly provide me with new memories to be fond of. Seventy-five percent of all the goodies are made on the premises; the rich ice cream is manufactured at the Hudson Valley location. Rocky Mountain also custom-designs candy bars and wrappers. Maybe there will be a Salli Vates bar in the future! (In the meantime, you will have to be satisfied with inedibles.)

Cookie Island: 184 Broadway, (212) 608-5937. Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory: 125 Chambers St., (212) 349-7553.

Winter Restaurant Week 2002

Does the end of the holiday season get you down? Cheer up; the fun is not over! Jan. 27-31 is Winter Restaurant Week. This year, you can eat from Aquavit to Zoë!

Happy New Year!

We spent New Year's Eve in the home of the peppermint patty (York, PA). Unfortunately for us, the York peppermint patty factory had moved south, and we didn't have a chance to visit the famed Wolfgang Sweet Shoppe. Arriving back in New York today after a four-hour drive, we were parched as well as chocolate-deprived. So, we were thrilled to discover that (a) Dean & DeLuca was open, and (b) the store was now carrying Cocio, the rich Danish chocolate milk beverage that was heavily promoted at this year's Chocolate Show. This thick cocoa-y treat is not just for kids! Now we feel refreshed and ready to begin the year 2003.

Dean and DeLuca: 560 Broadway, (212) 226-6800.